Posts Tagged ‘Grubs’

Terrie Greco, B.A.; HLT Dip.

 

Here we go – the most important info you’ll read on nematodes – how to apply them properly!!!  If your neighbour tells you they didn’t work – it’s because they purchased an expired product, a poor product – or – they did not provide the correct environment for successful application.  Biofloris guarantees the quality of the products it sells!

Hey – these are living micro-organisms – and they need to be applied properly or they won’t be effective!

Rule # 1 – Pre-application preparation

The soil must be moist before, during and after application!  Aim for 3-5 days of moist soil…nematodes move through the soil on a water film -so, if you want them to be mobile and search out grubs – apply water to a depth of at least three inches. This is critical to successful distribution throughout the damaged area.

Rule # 2 – Time of year – you may need more than one application!

Spring application is best if you have determined that grubs are already present in the soil.

Summer applications are needed if you have grub larva with a two and 3 year life cycle – such as May/June bugs.

Fall applications should start in late August when grubs are present in the soil again – they are especially close to the surface at this time of year, and this application time is a good preventative measure to avoid spring damage.  There is a high kill rate at this time of year.

Rule # 3 – Temperature

Do not apply beneficial nematodes if the temperature is below 50F or 10C, OR if it is hotter than 82F or 28C.

Rule # 4 – Time of day

Nematodes are sensitive to ultraviolet light, so apply in the morning or early evening.

Rule # 5 – How to apply

If the lawn is already moist, use a hose end sprayer – it really is one of the easiest ways to apply for homeowners.  Place the sponge in the container, set the hose end sprayer on maximum water, and distribute over the area. 

If using a watering can, make sure to stir or shake periodically so the nematodes don’t sink to the bottom.  Remember – soil should be moist to a depth of about three inches!

Final Rule # 6

If you can’t use them right away – they should be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks (check the package instructions).  Otherwise – apply within two hours if they have been added to water.

So there you go – a few simple steps to ensure a successful outcome with nematode applications.

Let me know if you have any questions – that’s what I’m here for!

Terrie Greco, B.A.; HLT Dip.

Following our blog last week, we received several  emails asking what nematodes  actually look like.  Here are a few pictures.  Keep those inquiries coming!

Nematodes- Steinernema carpocapsae

Nematodes -Steinernema carpocapsae – these nematodes have a ‘sit and wait’ style. They stay near the soil surface and ambush surface dwelling pests such as webworms, cutworms, armyworms (caterpillar larvae) June beetles and billbugs – to name a few. Most effective at temperatures between 22C-28C

Nematodes Heterorhabditis bacteriophora

Heterorhabditis bacteriophora These nematodes work on destructive beetle, moth/butterfly larva – even termites and ants! They burrow down about 7” and actively seek out these pests. They are most effective in warmer soil – I guess you could say they’re like our neighbours to the south!

Nematodes Steinernema feltiae

Nematodes - Steinernema feltiae – These nematodes tend to patrol the top three inches of soil and are most effective against fly larvae such as Craneflies and fungus gnats (to name a few). They are able to work at low temps as low as 10C. That’s chilly!

Terrie Greco, B.A.; HLT Dip.

Hi folks!  Welcome back for the scoop on how beneficial nematodes work. Beneficial nematodes are natural organisms that seek out destructive lawn grubs.

The battle that takes place below the soil line rivals any horror or sci-fi movie.  Refresher – beneficial nematodes are effective in controlling Japanese Beetle, European Chafer and June Beetle grubs (grubs are the larval stage of the beetles). Grubs chew the roots of grass plants as they make their way to the surface to prepare for their emergence as adults.  Brown patches on the lawn, turf that can be lifted easily, and signs of digging skunks are all indicators that these invaders are making short order of your grass.

Nematodes, once introduced into the lawn, seek out grubs by detecting carbon dioxide, excretory products and temperature changes from the grubs.  Talk about a sophisticated radar system!  The grubs don’t have a chance!

 The third larval stage of the nematode enters the grub through a body opening – mouth, spiracles, anus – get the picture?  It’s not a pretty one.  Some species can also pierce the body wall of the grub. These are war games – and nematodes have the upper hand!

Once the nematodes have set up ‘housekeeping’ inside the grub, they release bacteria into the body of the grub host.  These bacteria break down the body tissue inside the grub – providing ‘grub soup’ for the young nematodes.  When the nematodes reach a certain level of maturity, they exit the body of the grub and move on to a new host – and so the battle continues!  Thank goodness they’re on our side!

The key to successful control is time and method of application.

Stay tuned for: Part 3 – Successful Application of Beneficial Nematodes

Terrie Greco, B.A.; HLT Dip.

Although I realize that Biofloris has posted much background and advice already on the value of using beneficial nematodes to control grubs – it cannot be stressed enough that this is one of the most effective, safest and natural controls that homeowners can use to rid their lawns of such a destructive pest.

The first rule of turf war – know your enemy! Take a look at the following link:

 http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/08-023w.htm 

Identification of grub damage in your lawn is easy –mammals dig up areas looking for a tasty feast, patches of lawn appear brown, and your neighbours crack jokes about your lawn looking like a war zone.  If you can lift up areas of your lawn just like a piece of carpet – that’s the clincher – grubs are running amuck underfoot.  After lifting that ‘lawn carpet’ you will see small white ‘c’ shaped beetle larva in the exposed soil.

Three types of beetle larva commonly infest lawns – Japanese Beetle, European Chafer and June Beetle.  The grubs over winter deep in the soil and slowly move up as soil temperatures begin to rise – feeding voraciously on the tender roots of your turf plants.  The grubs are experiencing the last hurrah of insect puberty before they transform into an adult and leave the soil to mate and lay eggs.

How can you destroy these invaders?  Call in the Nematode Brigade – the special forces of the underworld.  Beneficial nematodes have an amazing capacity to control certain grub pests – but there are strict application guidelines to follow if success is expected.  Misapplication and subsequent failure only encourages the non-believers into telling you they won’t work.

Make no mistake – they do work! How nematodes actually destroy and control grubs is the stuff sci-fi movies are made of. 

Stay tuned for Part 2 – Turf Wars –The Rules of Combat