Neem Oil

Last week, our blog about Neem oil mentioned how the latter was not necessarily a good remedy to get rid of pest insects such as mealy bugs or aphids affecting indoor plants (Trevor Thomas did point out, though, that once a plant is treated for such pest insects, Neem oil was effective in keeping them from returning.)  How, then, does one get rid of pest insects such as mealy bugs or aphids?

To answer that question, we are reposting our blog from last year offering very concrete, step-by-step advice on how to go about treating pest insects, mealy bugs in particular on indoor plants:

“If you notice a little ball of white fluff on one of your plants, take a closer look. You may have a mealy bug problem. There are many kinds of mealy bugs but the one that seems to be most common in houseplants in North America is the citrus mealy bug.  In as far as your houseplants are concerned, the name has nothing to do with citrus fruit, nor with the fact that you may enjoy eating oranges and grapefruits.

Mealy bugs

Adult citrus mealy bugs are not very mobile and especially like to congregate tightly in protected parts of the plants such as in the crevice where leaves join the stem. You will also find them on leaves, especially young tender ones. The adults are covered in a hairy waxy coating that has a slight pinkish hue. Younger mealy bugs are very mobile, darker, not covered in hairy wax, and can easily move from one plant to another in search of tender leaves and stems where they latch on and start draining fluids from the plant.

Mealy bugs are difficult, but not impossible, to get rid of.

The first thing you should do is isolate and treat the infected plant. You should also isolate the neighboring plants as they may be infected too. Be sure to wipe down any surfaces like window ledges in between the plants to kill any stragglers with insecticidal soap.

To get rid of mealy bugs, be sure to wet all surfaces of the plant including any crevices or cracks in the stems where they may be hiding with insecticidal soap. Be sure to retreat again with insecticidal soap after 3 or 4 days.  One of my biologist friends dabs the mealy bugs he find with a Q-Tip dipped in rubbing alcohol.  This is VERY labor intensive and, he says, has never helped him to completely get rid of the problem completely.  In a recent blog post, I recommended neem oil as an alternative to insecticidal soap. Several people wrote to me to suggest that a combination of insecticidal soap and neem oil works best.  I.e. apply the insecticidal soap, repeat the application a few times and then take the neem oil approach.  The advantage of neem oil is that it stays on the plants and makes them unpalatable to new croppings of mealy bugs or other pests as they hatch. Soap is generally not effective once it has dried up.”

Insecticidal Soap

http://www.biofloris.com/blog_en/2010/02/treating-mealy-bugs-on-indoor-plants/

One of our readers, Trevor Thomas of Burnaby, British Columbia, recently sent us this text about Neem oil. 

“I was first introduced to Neem oil through the Vancouver Orchid Society as an insect repellent. Neem oil is derived from a tree that grows in India. It is a brown oily substance and from what I know, it is extremely bitter, hence its insect repellent qualities. It is non-toxic which makes it ideal for indoor plants.

Pure or mixed?

You can purchase Neem oil in its pure form and mix this with liquid soap or you can purchase it in a mixed concoction. In the past, when I’ve looked for Neem oil, it was hard to find in its pure form. I have seen it sold and marketed as a spray that you can use to enhance the texture of the leaves on your plants.

Desirable effects

A desirable side effect of Neem oil is that it leaves a shiny waxy texture on the leaves of plants that you spray it on. However, I find it is best suited as an insect repellent. If your plant is infected with mealy bugs or aphids Neem oil may not be your best bet in killing these pests, but once you’ve eradicated the bugs then I would definitely recommend a weekly regimen of Neem oil.”

Neem Oil

Write to us

Let us know when, how and in what form you use Neem oil.  We’d love to hear more on the topic!  Also, you can read or re-read or post from last year:

http://www.biofloris.com/blog_en/2010/02/neem-oil-for-indoor-plants/

Indoor Plants

Photo : wallpapergratis.net

Most of us are just dying to get outside and start gardening.  However, for many of our readers, this is not possible…there is way too much snow and it is frrrrreezing out there!

So take advantage of the moment and see to your indoor plants.  One of the first things to do is to think about fertilizing them. Therefore, we are reprinting our post from last year on the subject:

” We often tend to think of fertilizers as being important for outdoor plants without taking into consideration that indoor plants too need to be “fed”.

Watering plants allows nutritional elements inherent in the soil to dissolve in water and be absorbed by the roots.  These nutritional elements come from a wide range of sources, including the water itself, organic material, the air, etc.  These elements are important for plant growth. However, after a while, these nutrients run out and need to be supplemented with the help of fertilizers.

Indoor - Outdoor Fertilizer

Certain plants require large quantities nutrients while others require less; in fact, too much fertilization can sometimes be harmful. Those nutrients which are not absorbed immediately by a plant’s roots tend to accumulate and become toxic and in some cases burn the roots. Excess fertilizers leads to an accumulation on flower (plant) pot walls of the salts filtering through the pot pores.  These salts are also often seen on the sides of plastic pots or on the surface of the soil.

 Such accumulations of fertilizers in fact demonstrate that the plant did not need them and that over feeding is of no use. 

 In general, plants require three main nutritional elements: nitrogen, phosphorus and potash.  Different fertilizers contain different amounts of these elements, the percentage of which is often indicated in three numbers on fertilizer containers.  The first number indicates the percentage of nitrogen (N), the second of phosphorus (P) and the third of potash (K).  Certain fertilizers also contain small amounts of other elements not included in the numbering such as calcium, copper, or zinc.

Nitrogen is absorbed very rapidly and enhances the green coloring of a plant’s leaves.  Phosphorus helps develop the strength of a plant’s stem and it encourages healthy roots.  Potash, in turn, encourages flower formation and ensures vigorous plant growth.

For indoor plants, the best fertilizers are those which come in liquid or powder form and dissolve in water. Often, positive results can be seen within days.

In my blog next week, I will describe how to choose the best type of  fertilizer for indoor plants.  

The contents of this blog were inspired by a section in a book written by Joan Lee Faust given to me as a birthday present some years ago. ”

Here are some additional links about fertilizing indoor plants:

http://gardening.about.com/

http://organicgardening.about.com/

http://www.ehow.com/how_2091464_fertilize-indoor-plants.html

When we plan our seed purchases for the up-coming gardening season we tend to get carried away with great ideas for beauty and appetite. Just a reminder: make sure you purchase seeds of plants that will attract and provide a comfortable home to ladybugs.  Ladybugs are instrumental in fighting off numerous pest insects that can harm your plants.  That said, the ladybug-friendly plants on our list are actually quite beautiful and some of them, like mint and dill, are a delicious addition to your herb garden!

For more info and to help you with that list, we refer you to your blog of February 02, 2010:

“Just a quick reminder to those who are planning their seed purchase…don’t forget to include on your list seeds of plants and flowers which are popular amongst lady bugs. For those gardeners who plan to buy ladybugs as a natural, organic insecticide against a bunch of common pest insects (including aphids, mites, scales, thrips and small insect larvae) that can literally ruin plants, it is important to “welcome” your gardening ally appropriately. Plan now to ensure that the ladybugs you will purchase will feel at home. Remember: if they feel at home, they will stay in your garden rather than fly off to the neighbor’s and they will be of more use to you. The following plants are some which supply ladybugs with pollen:

• Sweet alyssum
• Golden rod
• Daisies
• Yarrow
• Dill
• Mint

Certainly there are other plants ladybugs like. Feel free to add to this list and….thanks in advance !”

http://www.biofloris.com/beneficial-insects/ladybugs-hippodamia-convergens-predator-1000-bag.html?___store=default&___from_store=francais

Amaryllis

An Amaryllis. Such a nice flower to have in the winter!

The Amaryllis plant (Hippeastrum), originally from South Africa, produces large, lily-shaped flowers.  The latter are white, pink or red and grow at the top of a long stem. It is a tropical plant.

Here’s how to get the most out of these beautiful flowers:

• plant the bulbs (making sure that one third or half of the bulb is outside of the soil) in a good potting medium and place the pots near a window, facing South;
• at the beginning, water lightly;
• once the flower stem appears, increase watering;
• after it has flowered, fertilize the Amaryllis for three months, to nourish the bulb’s reserves (but use only half of the recommended amount of fertilizer);  http://www.biofloris.com/fertilizers/seaweed-extract-1l.html
• when the leaves start turning yellow, start watering less;
• when the leaves have completely dried up, store the pots in a cool place;
• resume the growth cycle in December;
• be sure to repot every three years.

Amaryllis

Source:  Joan Lee Faust, LE GUIDE COMPLET DES PLANTES D’INTÉRIEURES

Photos: Wikipedia

For further reading, we suggest the following websites :

http://organicgardening.about.com/b/2010/12/16/og-tip-of-the-day-growing-happy-healthy-amaryllis.htm?nl=1

http://houseplants.about.com/od/foliageplants/p/Amaryllis.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amaryllis

Earwig/Perce-oreille/Tijereta

Biofloris is pleased to use today’s blog to announce that its Pest Insect section has been translated into Spanish and is now a permanent part of our Spanish blog page. 

Photo: Wikipedia

 http://www.biofloris.com/blog_es/insectos-daninos/ 

White Grub/Ver blanc/Gusano Blanco

The page presents a series of pest insects and diseases (with pictures), the damage they can do along with suggestions on how to control and even eliminate them.

http://www.biofloris.com/pests/?___store=default&SID=e31a9fc3dcfb610780db2bb3ce77f624 

Our many readers know our blog is in three languages, English, French and Spanish.  Our store is in English and French.  Our Facebook friends are from all over the world (check us out http://www.facebook.com/pages/biofloris-organic-gardening-jardinage-biologique-jardineria-ecologica/233231454061) and a great number of them are Spanish-speaking.

Mildew/Mildiou/Mildiu

Biofloris’ passion is organic gardening and we thought it important to communicate efficiently with our Spanish-speaking followers. With the Spanish Pest Insect section, many more people around the world will be able to fully understand the different pest-insect problems we address in our blogs and the solutions we recommend.

Many thanks to our Spanish translator for doing such a terrific job!

By the way, do you know of a pest insect, and a solution to get rid of it organically, that is not in our Pest Insect section? Please write to us (in the “Leave a reply” section below) and we will add it in!

Rust/Rouille/Moho

Poinsettia at Botanical Garden of Montreal

Before Christmas, we posted a blog on the history of the poinsettia plant.  Today, we’re going to address the dilemma of whether or not it’s worth keeping this plant or it should simply be discarded.

The following paragraphs are but general guidelines.  At the end of this post we suggest a couple of very good links with more detailed instructions on how to treat a poinsettia during the year in order to get it to bloom again.

A poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is particularly beautiful when its red bracts (a leaf with a flower in the angle where it meets the stem) appear, around Christmas time.

These bracts are not flowers, but leaves.  Its real flowers, are clustered structures (type of seeds) located in the center of the bracts.  The plant blooms for a longer period when placed in sunlight, away from wind draughts.  Water it well.  After it blooms, the poinsettia loses many leaves and tends to become less attractive.  Because it is rather difficult to get it to bloom a second time, many people prefer to simply get rid of it once it has bloomed once. 

If you do, however, decide to keep it, keep watering it well after it has bloomed.  Be sure to prune it a lot, in the spring, and plant it in the garden in the summer.  Around September 1^st, bring it back indoors. From the beginning of October through the end of November, make sure it gets very long nights (complete darkness from 5 PM until 8 AM), in order to allow new bracts to form.

Source: Joan Lee Faust, Le guide complet des plantes d’intérieures

Poinsettia in Oaxaca, Mexico

Please let us know how you have fared with poinsettia plants.

The following websites provide step by step instructions on what do to get your poinsettia to bloom next Christmas time.

http://www2.ville.montreal.qc.ca/jardin/en/info_verte/poinsettia/refleurir.htm

http://gardening.about.com/od/winterinthegarden/a/Poinsettia.htm

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/archives/parsons/flowers/poinsettia.html

…and to let you reap the benefits of organic gardening when it comes to herbs.  This recipe highlights the succulent aroma and taste of rosemary.  Enjoy! 

Rosemary Plant

Rosemary Pork Tenderloin

Rosemary Pork Tenderloin

• 1 tablespoon (15 ml) canola oil
• 1 pork tenderloin, 12 ounces to 1 pound (375 to 500 g)
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• ¼ heaping teaspoon (1.5ml) finely chopped fresh rosemary (or thyme)
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• Freshly ground pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F (200^o C)

Using a large, heavy, heatproof frying pan, heat oil over medium-high heat and brown meat on all sides, about four minutes.

In a cup, combine mustard, garlic, rosemary, salt and pepper.

Remove meat from pan and spread with rosemary mixture.

Return meat to pan and place in oven preheated to 400 degrees F (200^o C).

Roast uncovered for 15 to 18 minutes, or until a meat thermometer inserted in centre reads 160 degrees (71C) for medium doneness.

Remove pan from oven, cover loosely with aluminum foil and let stand for a few minutes.

Slice meat into for medallions.  

Bon appétit!

Source :  THE GOOD FOOD BOOK by Brenda Bradshaw and Cheryl Mutch

Rosemary Flower

Here are some links:

http://organicgardening.about.com/b/2010/11/18/plant-of-the-week-rosemary.htm

http://herbgardens.about.com/od/culinary/a/Rosemary.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosemary

Want to enjoy the benefits of your organic gardening in January? Try this recipe, calling for parsley, a favorite herb amongst organic gardeners. 

Parsley from my garden

Tabbouleh 

Tabbouleh

Ingredients:

• 1 cup (250ml) bulgur wheat
• Juice of 5 large lemons
• 1 bunch green onions, finely chopped
• 5 ripe tomatoes, diced very small
• 2 cups (500ml) chopped fresh parsley
• ½ English cucumber, chopped finely
• ½ cup (125 ml) chopped fresh mint
• ¼ cup (50ml) olive oil
• 2 crushed garlic cloves
• ½ red onion, finely chopped
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Photo: Wikipedia                              

Place bulgur wheat in a bowl and cover with lemon juice (top with cold water if bulgur wheat is not completely covered).

Soak until all the liquid is absorbed (1 to 2 hours).

Toss in remaining ingredients and mix well.

Allow salad’s flavors to meld in the refrigerator 1 to 2 hours before serving.

Bon appétit!

Photo: Banco de imagenes gratuitas