Posts Tagged ‘fertilizer’

Indoor Plants

Photo : wallpapergratis.net

Most of us are just dying to get outside and start gardening.  However, for many of our readers, this is not possible…there is way too much snow and it is frrrrreezing out there!

So take advantage of the moment and see to your indoor plants.  One of the first things to do is to think about fertilizing them. Therefore, we are reprinting our post from last year on the subject:

” We often tend to think of fertilizers as being important for outdoor plants without taking into consideration that indoor plants too need to be “fed”.

Watering plants allows nutritional elements inherent in the soil to dissolve in water and be absorbed by the roots.  These nutritional elements come from a wide range of sources, including the water itself, organic material, the air, etc.  These elements are important for plant growth. However, after a while, these nutrients run out and need to be supplemented with the help of fertilizers.

Indoor - Outdoor Fertilizer

Certain plants require large quantities nutrients while others require less; in fact, too much fertilization can sometimes be harmful. Those nutrients which are not absorbed immediately by a plant’s roots tend to accumulate and become toxic and in some cases burn the roots. Excess fertilizers leads to an accumulation on flower (plant) pot walls of the salts filtering through the pot pores.  These salts are also often seen on the sides of plastic pots or on the surface of the soil.

 Such accumulations of fertilizers in fact demonstrate that the plant did not need them and that over feeding is of no use. 

 In general, plants require three main nutritional elements: nitrogen, phosphorus and potash.  Different fertilizers contain different amounts of these elements, the percentage of which is often indicated in three numbers on fertilizer containers.  The first number indicates the percentage of nitrogen (N), the second of phosphorus (P) and the third of potash (K).  Certain fertilizers also contain small amounts of other elements not included in the numbering such as calcium, copper, or zinc.

Nitrogen is absorbed very rapidly and enhances the green coloring of a plant’s leaves.  Phosphorus helps develop the strength of a plant’s stem and it encourages healthy roots.  Potash, in turn, encourages flower formation and ensures vigorous plant growth.

For indoor plants, the best fertilizers are those which come in liquid or powder form and dissolve in water. Often, positive results can be seen within days.

In my blog next week, I will describe how to choose the best type of  fertilizer for indoor plants.  

The contents of this blog were inspired by a section in a book written by Joan Lee Faust given to me as a birthday present some years ago. ”

Here are some additional links about fertilizing indoor plants:

http://gardening.about.com/

http://organicgardening.about.com/

http://www.ehow.com/how_2091464_fertilize-indoor-plants.html

Christmas Cactus

The Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) usually blooms just before or during the holiday season.  Contrary to what most people think, its earth must be kept moist while the plant is growing, and dry during its time of rest.  

To get the most out of this beautiful plant, put it in the direct sun, at room temperature.  In order to flower, the Christmas cactus requires a short “day”.  Starting September 1^st, arrange for it to have long nights (at least 14 hours) of complete darkness, between 6 PM and 8 AM, until new flower buds form.  If the plant is placed in a cool room (53 ⁰ F or 11.6 ⁰ C) from mid-September through mid-October, buds will form, no matter that the length of the plant’s “day”.  A lack of light during the day or a room that is too warm can cause the buds to fall off. 

Christmas Cactus

It’s a good idea to repot your Christmas cactus in the spring. 

If you want to fertilize, the biofloris team suggests using a small dose of  bioprotic fish- fish fertilizer once a week. 

Christmas Cactus

The Christmas cactus will bloom again in March, although with a smaller number of flowers. 

Source: Joan Lee Faust, Le guide complet des Plantes d’intérieures 

Orchid

Last week, we posted a blog on how to best take care of orchids. Over the next couple of weeks or so, we will be sharing some footnotes to our orchid text, including a tidbit about vanilla and some more photographs of orchids.

Today, we’d like to share the following post with you, written by Michele Collet.

Enjoy!

http://www.environmentalgraffiti.com/news-dramatic-and-amazing-sex-life-orchids

Orchid

Orchids

Orchid

Many of our readers have written asking us how to best take care of their orchids.  We consulted a biofloris.com friend named William who is a biologist and works at the Big Barn Garden Centre in Victoria, BC.  William was kind enough to submit 10 key pointers indicated below.

Keep in mind:  most of the commercially available orchids are tree dwellers. They live on branches on trees in the wild. If you try to mimic such conditions and heed these ten pointers carefully, you will find they are easy to grow and will produce flowers regularly.

1.- Don’t put the orchid in direct sunlight, but in a bright room. Direct sunlight will burn the leaves.

2.- The potting medium is bark to mimic the tree branch. The roots need to breathe. So don’t add soil to the bark medium. The orchids get all their nutrients from the slow decomposition of the bark.

3.- Let the medium dry out between waterings but don’t leave the potting medium dry for too long.

4.- Water the orchid by placing the pot in a sink and pouring water through the medium. Make sure you get the aerial roots wet too. Let the water completely drain before putting the pot back on the table or shelf or wherever you keep the orchid. In the wild, water pours down the branch, wets the orchids’ roots and drains away quickly.

Orchid

5.- Some roots will grow out of the pot. Don’t try to bury them. They are aerial roots.

6.- Don’t let the orchids sit in water. If left in standing water, the roots will rot and the plant will die. (that’s why you let the plant drain in the sink as in 4 above). Try not to get water on the leaves or let it sit in the crevice of the leaves either. Again, this causes rot. If you do get water in the crevices, dab it out with a paper towel).

7.- Fertilize the orchid when it is growing. It will usually grow only one thing at a time: a root; a leaf; a flower stock. When you fertilize, water the plant first, then pour the fertilizer solution through. This is because you want to make sure the roots are wet before your fertilize them.

Orchid

8.- Water with room temperature water so as not to shock the plant.

9.- There are specially formulated fertilizers for orchids, although I have had good success with all-purpose fertilizer. If you are growing orchids in bark, you can use a fertilizer with higher nitrogen (typically 30-10-10). Organic fertilizers are available from biofloris.com. If you use regular houseplant fertilizer be sure to dilute the solution by at least half, otherwise you will burn the orchid roots.

10.-  There can be some pests but because orchids are small, you can usually handle the pests in the most environmentally friendly way and that is using a q-tip soaked in alcohol and dabbing each bug off individually. The most frequent ones I have come across are aphids and mealy bugs.

Now for some interesting links:

“Beauty is in the eye of the beholder”.  Here is someone’s list of the world’s 30 most beautiful orchids:

First 15:        

http://gomestic.com/gardening/top-15-worlds-most-beautiful-orchids/

Second 15:  

http://gomestic.com/gardening/the-worlds-most-beautiful-orchids-two/

And here is a photo encyclopedia of orchids, with more than 12,000 species listed. It is user generated.

http://www.orchidspecies.com/]

Orchidaceae, the orchid family, is the world’s second largest family of flowering plants, the first being the asters (sunflowers, daisies, etc). Scroll to the bottom of the following page to see some of the amazing variety that this family produces:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orchidaceae

Terrie Greco, B.A.; HLT Dip.

Hello everyone!  If you refer to last week’s blog (http://www.biofloris.com/blog_en/?p=593)

and previous Biofloris blogs – you’ll know that bulb planting season is upon us!

Tulips (Tulipa spp.), or the crown jewel of the spring garden, come in a myriad of colours, shapes, sizes and bloom times.  When you’re at the nursery picking up some of those luscious bulbs, remember to check if the bulb is an early, mid-season or late spring bloomer.  You’ll only have a few of each emerging in the location of your choice over the course of the spring season if you mix varieties.  Always best to plant in groups if at least a dozen, using the same variety. 

Check out this link for a rundown on the different types available.

 http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Tulipa

Crocus (Crocus sativus) on the other hand, should be planted in large groups of at least 2 dozen; they are small early spring bloomers, and need a larger grouping to provide visual impact.

Hyacinths – well – you either love or hate the strong fragrance.  Plant these scented bulbs close to an entranceway or alongside a walkway to enjoy the fragrance on your way to and from your house.  When planting, wear gloves; hyacinths are often dusted with a fungicide – and make sure you wash your hands after planting.  The following link is a good reference for more info on planting hyacinths. 

http://www.theflowerexpert.com/content/growingflowers/growingflowers/hyacinth

About those squirrels – the later you plant, the better.  But do try to get these bulbs in the ground by late October.  At that point, the squirrels have usually stocked up their pantries for the winter and are hunkering down for the onslaught of winter.  By the way, squirrels are not fond of the smell of bulbs in the Allium family, so consider planting some of the ornamental onions in between tulips and crocus.

http://www.theflowerexpert.com/content/growingflowers/growingflowers/allium

Here is another reminder to visit the following link for more insights, tips and ideas on planting bulbs. 

http://marjorieharris.com/newsletter/2010/eletterSep2010.php

Terrie Greco, B.A.; HLT Dip.

This was just posted this week. Very interesting!   The link contains some beautiful pictures and some very useful tips.

http://marjorieharris.com/newsletter/2010/eletterSep2010.php

Terrie Greco, B.A.; HLT Dip.

Gearing up for next summer now?  Yes!  It is indeed important to take some steps in September to be better prepared for the next gardening season.  For example, last week we posted a blog on nematodes (http://blog.biofloris.com/) to help ensure a beautiful and healthy lawn next spring and summer. Now is also the time to plant bulbs. Last year, Biofloris posted a brief blog on the topic (http://www.biofloris.com/blog_en/?p=86). 

Today, I’m going to provide many more details, all while focussing on a flower which is a favourite to many: daffodils. Next weeks, I’ll zero in on planting Crocus, Tulip and Hyacinth bulbs. 

Daffodils (Narcissus spp.)

Always a favourite in the garden, there are hundreds, if not thousands of different daffodil forms and colours to choose from.

Things to keep in mind!

1.-Select just healthy bulbs: Choose firm bulbs with no obvious signs of rot in order to have healthy plants and to avoid planting in vain.

2.-Plant daffodils first:  The root system needs six weeks to establish before frost, so get them into the ground as early as possible.September is ideal.  The good news – squirrels won’t touch them!

3.-General rule for planting bulbs:

• The planting depth of the bulb is 2-3 times the height of the bulb.
• If you are not sure which is the top or the bottom-look for the small dried roots at the base of the bulb – place this at the bottom of the hole.
• Always plant in a well drained soil and sunny location

4.-Use a bulb booster: In order to provide food to get roots established and a boost in the spring.  By the way, we carry a great fertilizer on the Biofloris web site. Place a few tablespoons at the base of the planting hole. http://www.biofloris.com/acti-sol-mother-hen-hen-manure-4-4-2-all-purpose-fertilizer-1-36kg.html 

5.-Do not mix different varieties in the same location: You’ll get more visual impact in with large groups of the same variety. Plant in groups of at least 12 bulbs.

Take a look at the following link for more detailed planting info and plenty of great photos!  Happy planting!

http://www.daffodilusa.org/daffodils/div.html

In my blog last week, I closed off by saying that the best types of fertilizers for indoor plants are those which come in liquid or powder form.

Of course, to choose a fertilizer, you must take into account your plant’s needs. For example, if your plant is about to flower, then a fertilizer with a stronger concentration of potash will encourage plant vigor. On the other hand, if you find that the leaves of a given plant are beginning to look anemic, a fertilizer with a stronger concentration of nitrogen would be better.

Also, of course, organic fertilizers are what I recommend.

Fertilizers which come in pellet form, used for outdoor gardening, are not recommended for indoor plants because they take too long to dissolve.

There are no strict rules when it comes to the frequency at which you should fertilize indoor plants, except in those cases when artificial lighting is widely used. Because plants exposed to artificial light are constantly exposed to light, they cannot really differentiate between seasons and/or day and night. Therefore, they can be fertilized once a week; however, be sure to water them with clear water at least every four to six weeks in order to get rid of excess fertilizing matter present in the soil.

Plants exposed to natural (sun) light do not need to be fertilized as often. A good time to fertilize is when you start noticing that your plant star to form new leaves. It is not always necessary to follow product instructions. Many times, you will be the best judge of when it is opportune to apply fertilizer. It is a good idea to fertilize a flowering plant repeatedly when buds start to show, right until the actual appearance of the flower. Plants with large leaves tend to grow more slowly and require fertilization only about every three months or so. However, the sudden yellowing of these plants’ leaves may be a signal that fertilization is called for.

For more information on fertilizers, simply click here.

The contents of this blog were inspired by a section in a book written by Joan Lee Faust given to me as a birthday present some years ago.

We often tend to think of fertilizers as being important for outdoor plants without taking into consideration that indoor plants too need to be “fed”.

 Watering plants allows nutritional elements inherent in the soil to dissolve in water and be absorbed by the roots.  These nutritional elements come from a wide range of sources, including the water itself, organic material, the air, etc.  These elements are important for plant growth. However, after a while, these nutrients run out and need to be supplemented with the help of fertilizers.

 Certain plants require large quantities nutrients while others require less; in fact, too much fertilization can sometimes be harmful. Those nutrients which are not absorbed immediately by a plant’s roots tend to accumulate and become toxic and in some cases burn the roots. Excess fertilizers leads to an accumulation on flower (plant) pot walls of the salts filtering through the pot pores.  These salts are also often seen on the sides of plastic pots or on the surface of the soil.

 Such accumulations of fertilizers in fact demonstrate that the plant did not need them and that over feeding is of no use. 

 In general, plants require three main nutritional elements: nitrogen, phosphorus and potash.  Different fertilizers contain different amounts of these elements, the percentage of which is often indicated in three numbers on fertilizer containers.  The first number indicates the percentage of nitrogen (N), the second of phosphorus (P) and the third of potash (K).  Certain fertilizers also contain small amounts of other elements not included in the numbering such as calcium, copper, or zinc.

 Nitrogen is absorbed very rapidly and enhances the green coloring of a plant’s leaves.  Phosphorus helps develop the strength of a plant’s stem and it encourages healthy roots.  Potash, in turn, encourages flower formation and ensures vigorous plant growth.

For indoor plants, the best fertilizers are those which come in liquid or powder form and dissolve in water. Often, positive results can be seen within days.

 In my blog next week, I will describe how to choose the best type of fertilizer for indoor plants.  

 The contents of this blog were inspired by a section in a book written by Joan Lee Faust given to me as a birthday present some years ago.