Last week we took the opportunity to reintroduce ourselves, for the benefit of first time readers.  As promised in that blog, today we are posting a brief overview of the five most popular beneficial insects for your garden. The text was actually published last July on our blog site and we are reproducing parts of it here today:

“Introducing beneficial insects to the garden to keep insect pests in check is the best way to becoming more environmentally friendly.  Biofloris is committed to providing the highest quality beneficials for the garden as well as educational support for release and establishment in your garden.

Quick reminder:

• A predator in this context is an insect that catches and consumes other insects (prey). Please click here for more information on pest insects.
• A parasitizer in this context is an insect that inserts it’s own eggs into the larva or egg of another host and consumes the host internally

Convergent Lady Beetles, Lady Birds, Lady Bugs (Hippodamia convergens)

Convergent Lady Beetles, Lady Birds, Lady Bugs

Of all the beneficial insects around, the convergent Lady Bug is probably the most familiar to homeowners and children alike as a friend to your garden.  Both the larva and adult have a voracious appetite for many different species of aphids; so encouraging these pretty little beetles in the garden makes good sense. The only drawback is that it is often difficult to find them in local stores or garden centers…

Beneficial Nematodes (Steinernema carpocapsae & Heterohabditis bacteriophora)

Beneficial nematodes

…to control various lawn grubs such as Japanese Beetle, June Beetle and European Chafer.  These microscopic worms are a powerful tool to grub control if released under the right conditions. …

Brown Lacewings (Hemerobius spp.)

Brown Lacewings

Unlike the more familiar green lacewings, brown lacewings are active at night.  They control numerous garden pests such as mites, leafhoppers, mealybugs, thrips and whitefly.

Parasitic Wasps (Trichogramma spp.)

Parasitic Wasps

This is one of the smallest parasitic wasps around, and the best thing about this wasp is that it parasitizes over 200 different spp. of moth and butterfly eggs before the larva emerge and damage plant foliage.

Praying Mantis (Mantis spp.)

Praying Mantis

A fascinating appearance and front legs that strike with lightening speed, these highly predacious insects feed on flies, moths, crickets and grasshoppers, to name just a few.  They generally are more easily established in gardens using organic practices…”

http://www.biofloris.com/blog_en/2010/07/beneficial-insects-for-the-garden/

Next week, we’ll provide a brief reminder as to how to ensure proper application of beneficial insects in your garden.

Indoor Plants

Photo : wallpapergratis.net

Most of us are just dying to get outside and start gardening.  However, for many of our readers, this is not possible…there is way too much snow and it is frrrrreezing out there!

So take advantage of the moment and see to your indoor plants.  One of the first things to do is to think about fertilizing them. Therefore, we are reprinting our post from last year on the subject:

” We often tend to think of fertilizers as being important for outdoor plants without taking into consideration that indoor plants too need to be “fed”.

Watering plants allows nutritional elements inherent in the soil to dissolve in water and be absorbed by the roots.  These nutritional elements come from a wide range of sources, including the water itself, organic material, the air, etc.  These elements are important for plant growth. However, after a while, these nutrients run out and need to be supplemented with the help of fertilizers.

Indoor - Outdoor Fertilizer

Certain plants require large quantities nutrients while others require less; in fact, too much fertilization can sometimes be harmful. Those nutrients which are not absorbed immediately by a plant’s roots tend to accumulate and become toxic and in some cases burn the roots. Excess fertilizers leads to an accumulation on flower (plant) pot walls of the salts filtering through the pot pores.  These salts are also often seen on the sides of plastic pots or on the surface of the soil.

 Such accumulations of fertilizers in fact demonstrate that the plant did not need them and that over feeding is of no use. 

 In general, plants require three main nutritional elements: nitrogen, phosphorus and potash.  Different fertilizers contain different amounts of these elements, the percentage of which is often indicated in three numbers on fertilizer containers.  The first number indicates the percentage of nitrogen (N), the second of phosphorus (P) and the third of potash (K).  Certain fertilizers also contain small amounts of other elements not included in the numbering such as calcium, copper, or zinc.

Nitrogen is absorbed very rapidly and enhances the green coloring of a plant’s leaves.  Phosphorus helps develop the strength of a plant’s stem and it encourages healthy roots.  Potash, in turn, encourages flower formation and ensures vigorous plant growth.

For indoor plants, the best fertilizers are those which come in liquid or powder form and dissolve in water. Often, positive results can be seen within days.

In my blog next week, I will describe how to choose the best type of  fertilizer for indoor plants.  

The contents of this blog were inspired by a section in a book written by Joan Lee Faust given to me as a birthday present some years ago. ”

Here are some additional links about fertilizing indoor plants:

http://gardening.about.com/

http://organicgardening.about.com/

http://www.ehow.com/how_2091464_fertilize-indoor-plants.html

Orchid

Last week, we posted a blog on how to best take care of orchids. Over the next couple of weeks or so, we will be sharing some footnotes to our orchid text, including a tidbit about vanilla and some more photographs of orchids.

Today, we’d like to share the following post with you, written by Michele Collet.

Enjoy!

http://www.environmentalgraffiti.com/news-dramatic-and-amazing-sex-life-orchids

Orchid

Orchids

Orchid

Many of our readers have written asking us how to best take care of their orchids.  We consulted a biofloris.com friend named William who is a biologist and works at the Big Barn Garden Centre in Victoria, BC.  William was kind enough to submit 10 key pointers indicated below.

Keep in mind:  most of the commercially available orchids are tree dwellers. They live on branches on trees in the wild. If you try to mimic such conditions and heed these ten pointers carefully, you will find they are easy to grow and will produce flowers regularly.

1.- Don’t put the orchid in direct sunlight, but in a bright room. Direct sunlight will burn the leaves.

2.- The potting medium is bark to mimic the tree branch. The roots need to breathe. So don’t add soil to the bark medium. The orchids get all their nutrients from the slow decomposition of the bark.

3.- Let the medium dry out between waterings but don’t leave the potting medium dry for too long.

4.- Water the orchid by placing the pot in a sink and pouring water through the medium. Make sure you get the aerial roots wet too. Let the water completely drain before putting the pot back on the table or shelf or wherever you keep the orchid. In the wild, water pours down the branch, wets the orchids’ roots and drains away quickly.

Orchid

5.- Some roots will grow out of the pot. Don’t try to bury them. They are aerial roots.

6.- Don’t let the orchids sit in water. If left in standing water, the roots will rot and the plant will die. (that’s why you let the plant drain in the sink as in 4 above). Try not to get water on the leaves or let it sit in the crevice of the leaves either. Again, this causes rot. If you do get water in the crevices, dab it out with a paper towel).

7.- Fertilize the orchid when it is growing. It will usually grow only one thing at a time: a root; a leaf; a flower stock. When you fertilize, water the plant first, then pour the fertilizer solution through. This is because you want to make sure the roots are wet before your fertilize them.

Orchid

8.- Water with room temperature water so as not to shock the plant.

9.- There are specially formulated fertilizers for orchids, although I have had good success with all-purpose fertilizer. If you are growing orchids in bark, you can use a fertilizer with higher nitrogen (typically 30-10-10). Organic fertilizers are available from biofloris.com. If you use regular houseplant fertilizer be sure to dilute the solution by at least half, otherwise you will burn the orchid roots.

10.-  There can be some pests but because orchids are small, you can usually handle the pests in the most environmentally friendly way and that is using a q-tip soaked in alcohol and dabbing each bug off individually. The most frequent ones I have come across are aphids and mealy bugs.

Now for some interesting links:

“Beauty is in the eye of the beholder”.  Here is someone’s list of the world’s 30 most beautiful orchids:

First 15:        

http://gomestic.com/gardening/top-15-worlds-most-beautiful-orchids/

Second 15:  

http://gomestic.com/gardening/the-worlds-most-beautiful-orchids-two/

And here is a photo encyclopedia of orchids, with more than 12,000 species listed. It is user generated.

http://www.orchidspecies.com/]

Orchidaceae, the orchid family, is the world’s second largest family of flowering plants, the first being the asters (sunflowers, daisies, etc). Scroll to the bottom of the following page to see some of the amazing variety that this family produces:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orchidaceae

Terrie Greco, B.A.; HLT Dip.

It’s that time of year again.  The days are getting shorter and temperatures are dropping.  Now is the time to bring your tender plants inside for a winter rest.  After all, they have worked very hard for you all summer.  Remember: tender plants are plants that cannot survive frost or freezing temperatures. 

The advantage of preparing and storing your favorite plants is not just economic; you may be fond of a particular flower colour and want to ensure you have an endless supply for your garden year after year. 

The actual calendar date that you bring these plants in will depend on the seasonal temperature changes and frost dates in your area. 

Important things to remember: 

1. Check plants very carefully for signs of pests-if you have had aphids over the summer-don’t bring them in – aphids will come back to haunt you.
2. If you are over wintering the whole plant (annual Geranium, for example), remove existing garden soil and pot up in fresh soilless mix.  Trim back the root system and the stems-the plant will experience some transplant shock, so it’s best to reduce the size.
3. Isolate plants for at least 2 weeks -if pests emerge you want to protect your other house plants from becoming infested.
4. If you are digging up tubers or corms, cut back the top growth, remove the soil from the root systems and dry out on newspapers first before storing in a cool, dark area.

See the links below for more specifics on propagation and storage of a variety of plants: 

http://www.finegardening.com/how-to/articles/overwintering-tender-plants.aspx 

http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/Profile.aspx?pid=337 

http://gardening.about.com/od/floweringbulbs/a/StoringBulbs.htm 

For more details, check out the photos below: 

TENDERPLANTS: Annual Geranium

Annual Geranium – There are a variety of ways annual geraniums can be over wintered – you can remove the soil and hang the plant up in a cool dark place, repot and bring in the home, or, take stem cuttings for new plants.
Photo property of Biofloris 

TENDERPLANTS: Canna Lily

Canna Lily – The Canna Lily is a tuberous root which does not survive our cold winters.  Dig up before frost, cut back to about 5”, and dry out on newspapers-cleaning off most of the soil before storing on a tray.  Mist occasionally to prevent desiccation.
Photo from: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia 

TENDERPLANTS: Coleus

Coleus or Flame Nettle – Taking cuttings is your best bet here.  Take a 4”-6” stem cutting, making sure you cut about 1’4” below a leaf node.  Remove the lower leaves and place in water until roots appear.
Photo property of Biofloris 

TENDERPLANTS: Tuberous Begonia

Tuberous Begonia – Before frost, dig up your plants and clean off the soil.  Cut off the top growth and let the tubers dry for a few days before storing in dry peat moss or sawdust in a paper bag . Mist the sawdust or peat moss very lightly to provide the slightest hint of moisture-too much moisture will encourage fungal growth.
Photo from: Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Colorful flowers in San Miguel de Allende

This is the third and last of three posts for this week, with pictures taken by a biofloris friend on trip to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico in August.  On Tuesday, we showed photographs of a lovely private garden in Los Frailes, on the outskirts of San Miguel de Allende and yesterday, attractive roof tops seen around the town; today:  photos of plants, trees, shrubs and flowers taken here and there downtown San Miguel.

Just a reminder: for more information on San Miguel de Allende, check out Wikipedia.  Another neat site is that of the Garden Club of San Miguel de Allende.

Enjoy the colors and please write to us with your impressions! Unfortunately, the biofloris friend who submitted the pics doesn’t know the names of all the plants; do you know them?

Bugambilia and other flowers in San Miguel de Allende

Colorful wall and flowers in San Miguel de Allende

Courtyard garden in a restaurant in San Miguel de Allende

More colorful flowers in San Miguel de Allende

Plants in the courtyard of a San Miguel de Allende restaurant

Trees on a Rooftop in San Miguel de Allende

This is the second of three posts for this week, with pictures taken by a biofloris friend on a recent trip to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.  Yesterday, we showed photographs of a beautiful private garden in Los Frailes, on the outskirts of San Miguel de Allende.  Today, we’ll be looking at attractive roof tops seen around town; tomorrow:  photos of plants, trees, shrubs and flowers taken here and there downtown San Miguel.

Just a reminder: for more information on San Miguel de Allende, check out Wikipedia.  Another neat site is that of the Garden Club of San Miguel de Allende.

Enjoy ! And let us know what you think! Unfortunately, the biofloris friend who submitted the pics doesn’t know the names of all the plants; do you know them?

Rooftop edge as seen from the street, San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende Rooftops

San Miguel de Allende Rooftop with Cathedral in the background

More rooftop edges seen from the street in San Miguel de Allende

View from one rooftop garden of another, San Miguel de Allende